Best Way to Clean Washing Machine: Expert Guide 2026

You run a load, pull the clothes out, and instead of that fresh, clean smell, you get something faintly damp, sour, or musty. Many assume the problem is the detergent, the towels, or the weather. Often, the actual issue is the machine itself.

The best way to clean washing machine odours isn't a one-off blast with whatever cleaner is in the cupboard. It's a method. You need to remove residue, dry the places that stay wet, and keep up a simple maintenance routine so the smell doesn't come straight back. That matters in Australian homes, where laundry spaces can be humid, enclosed, and hard on appliances if moisture lingers.

Why Your 'Clean' Laundry Smells Less Than Fresh

A washing machine can look spotless and still be dirty where it counts. The drum might shine, but behind the rubber seal, inside the dispenser drawer, and around the drain path, there can be a film of detergent, fabric softener, lint, body oils, and moisture. That mix is exactly what stale odours feed on.

What's actually causing the smell

The smell usually comes from build-up plus trapped moisture.

Front-loaders are the usual offenders because water sits in the folds of the door gasket. Top-loaders can go sour too, especially around the rim, under the lid, and near the agitator or wash plate. If you use more detergent than the machine needs, the residue gets worse. If you shut the door straight after a wash, the inside stays damp for hours.

That's why running another normal load doesn't fix it. You're washing clothes in a space that already has grime stuck to it.

> Practical rule: If the machine smells when it's empty, your laundry will usually pick up that smell as it washes and dries.

There's also a hygiene angle. Not every smell means a serious contamination issue, but wet appliance surfaces can support microbial growth. If you want a plain-English explanation of why moisture control matters in washers, this guide on BacteriaFAQ on Pseudomonas control is a useful companion read.

Why this is really a maintenance issue

Most homeowners treat washer cleaning as a rescue job. That's backwards. The better approach is to treat it like any other home-care task. Dry things after use, clean residue before it hardens, and check the machine before a small problem becomes an expensive one.

That same preventive mindset applies elsewhere in the home too. If you're already thinking about appliance upkeep and running costs, it's worth looking at how other systems affect the household budget, such as electric water heater vs gas water heater.

Here's the key point. A washing machine doesn't get clean because it handles soap and water all day. It gets dirty because soap, water, heat, and grime collect in places you don't see.

Residue builds layers: Detergent and softener leave films behind.
Moisture gets trapped: Seals, drawers, and hoses stay wet longer than the drum.
Odour returns fast: If you clean only the drum and ignore the seal or filter, the smell often comes back.

Gathering Your Cleaning Toolkit

A good washer clean starts before any cycle does. Get the supplies sorted first, and the job is faster, safer, and less likely to turn into a half-cleaned machine with grime left in the places that matter.

What you use matters because washers contain a mix of metal, plastic, rubber seals, and internal hoses. The wrong cleaner can leave residue behind or shorten the life of parts that stay wet for long stretches. The right kit helps you remove build-up without creating a new problem.

The essentials

Keep it simple:

Microfibre cloths: For wiping the drum, door seal, drawer, lid, and outer surfaces without leaving lint behind.
A small scrub brush or old toothbrush: Useful for detergent channels, seal folds, and other tight spots where sludge collects.
A shallow tray or old towel: Helps catch leftover water if you open a filter or drain point later.
A manufacturer-approved washing machine cleaner: The safest option if your manual specifies a cleaner or tablet.

The optional extras

These are useful in the right machine and the right spot:

White vinegar: Handy for deodorising and loosening some residue if your manufacturer allows it.
Bicarbonate of soda: Useful as a gentle scrub on removable parts and some stained surfaces.
Gloves: A sensible choice when you are handling mouldy residue, detergent sludge, or dirty drain water.

The main trade-off is cost versus compatibility. Pantry staples are cheap and easy to keep on hand, but they are not approved for every washer. Some brands are fine with vinegar. Others are not. Check the manual before you pour anything into the drum or drawer.

That matters more in Australian homes than many people realise. Warm weather, frequent washing, and closed-up laundries can keep moisture hanging around longer, especially in apartments and busy family households. A small kit you can use every month is usually more effective than a big one-off clean after the smell has already settled in.

What works best in practice

If the goal is the lowest-risk clean, use a washer cleaner your manufacturer approves and keep vinegar as a backup only if the manual allows it. That approach protects seals and internal components, and it makes your routine easier to repeat.

I also recommend keeping the kit in the laundry instead of spreading it across the house. If the cloths, brush, cleaner, and towel are already there, you are more likely to do the quick follow-up jobs that stop odours returning. That kind of small, repeatable maintenance usually saves more hassle than a cupboard full of products, and it fits the same practical mindset behind other household habits that help with saving money around the home in Australia.

The Deep Clean Process for Front-Load Machines

Front-loaders need a more deliberate clean because they hide grime in all the awkward places. If your machine smells, this is usually where the problem sits. The gasket, dispenser drawer, and lower drain area hold on to moisture long after the cycle ends.

Start with the broad clean, then move to the detail work. Skipping the detail work is why many front-load cleans fail.

A quick visual guide helps if you prefer to follow steps in order.

Start with the hot cleaning cycle

For front-load washers, a strong cleaning sequence is well established. Maytag recommends emptying the drum, running a hot cleaning cycle with a washer-cleaner tablet or other manufacturer-approved cleaner, then manually wiping the door seal, dispenser drawer, and exterior, and leaving the door open to dry in its guide on how to clean a washing machine.

That order matters. The hot cycle loosens residue inside the machine. The manual cleaning afterwards removes what the cycle can't reach.

Follow this sequence:

Empty the machine fully. No clothes, no stray socks, no wet cloths.
Select the hottest cleaning cycle available. If your washer has a dedicated tub clean or clean washer cycle, use it.
Add the approved cleaner. Use it exactly as directed by the manufacturer or product label.
Let the cycle finish completely. Don't interrupt it halfway.

Clean the gasket like you mean it

Once the cycle ends, open the door and inspect the rubber seal. Pull it back gently with your fingers and look into every fold. Often, slime, lint, hair, black spotting, and detergent paste sit in these folds.

Use a damp microfibre cloth first. Then use your small brush on stubborn corners. If the cloth comes away grey or black, keep going until it doesn't.

> The door seal is the most common point of failure in a front-loader cleaning routine. If you rush this part, the smell often survives the entire deep clean.

Pay attention to the bottom section of the gasket. Water tends to sit there, and so do small bits of grit and fluff.

Remove and scrub the dispenser drawer

Pull the drawer out fully if your model allows it. Most do. Rinse it under warm water, then scrub inside the detergent and softener compartments. Old softener residue turns sticky and can hold odours long after the drum looks clean.

Don't forget the drawer cavity inside the machine. Use a cloth or brush to clean the rails and water channels where residue hardens out of sight.

For readers who like a visual walkthrough, this short video covers the process clearly:

Finish with the surfaces and dry-out

Wipe the glass, control panel, handle, and outer door area. These aren't the main odour source, but they collect detergent splashes and damp lint.

Then leave the door open so the interior can dry. Don't close it just because the clean is finished. Drying is part of the clean.

A solid front-loader deep clean usually includes these essential steps:

Hot internal wash: Loosens hidden residue.
Door gasket cleaning: Removes trapped moisture and mould-prone grime.
Dispenser cleaning: Clears the sticky build-up that feeds smells.
Open-air drying: Stops the machine returning to that damp, stale state.

Reviving Your Top-Load Washing Machine

Top-load machines usually don't have the same gasket problem as front-loaders, but they collect grime in different spots. The upper rim, underside of the lid, fabric softener dispensers, and the area around the agitator or wash plate can get coated with residue that a standard cycle never shifts.

The best way to clean washing machine interiors in a top-loader is to use the machine's own water capacity to your advantage. You're not just rinsing. You're soaking, loosening, scrubbing, and flushing.

Use a soak-and-agitate approach

If your machine allows you to fill with hot water, let it do that first. Add your chosen cleaner only if it's suitable for your model and aligns with the manual.

Then let the solution sit so it can soften residue. After that, run agitation briefly, stop it again, and let it soak a bit longer before completing the cycle. The exact controls vary by model, so use the closest equivalent your machine offers.

Why does this work better than a quick empty cycle? Because top-loaders often have grime sitting above the normal waterline and around moving parts. Agitation loosens it. Soaking gives the cleaner time to work on stubborn film.

Scrub the places the water misses

Once the machine drains, lift the lid and inspect the tub walls, especially around the top edge. You'll often find a dull ring of residue there. That ring can hold odour even if the lower tub looks fine.

Use a cloth for broad surfaces and a brush for tighter spots:

Under the lid: Detergent mist and damp lint collect here.
Around the rim: This area is often overlooked because it isn't fully visible.
Around the agitator or wash plate: Check for scum, hair, and trapped grime.
In removable dispensers: Fabric softener cups are common problem spots.

If your top-loader has a centre agitator with a removable cap, check whether it can be lifted off for cleaning. If the manual says yes, clean underneath it carefully and refit it securely.

> A top-loader can smell clean during a cycle and still stink once the lid lifts, because the residue is sitting higher up than the wash water reaches.

Don't ignore the exterior edges

Top-loaders often hide mess in plain sight. Wipe the control panel, lid hinges, handle recess, and cabinet lip. These areas won't usually cause the musty smell inside the drum, but they do collect splash-back and powder residue that make the machine feel grimy.

A simple top-loader recovery routine looks like this:

| Area | What to do | Why it matters | |---|---|---| | Tub interior | Run a hot cleaning cycle or hot wash with suitable cleaner | Loosens internal film | | Upper rim | Wipe and scrub residue ring | Removes grime above waterline | | Agitator or wash plate | Clean around base and crevices | Stops trapped sludge from lingering | | Lid and hinges | Wipe thoroughly | Clears damp lint and detergent splash | | Dispenser parts | Remove and rinse if possible | Prevents stale softener build-up |

Top-loaders are often more forgiving than front-loaders, but they still need regular attention. If the smell keeps returning after a full clean, the next place to inspect is the filter, drain path, or hose.

Targeting Odour Hotspots Filters Drains and Seals

When a machine still smells after a drum clean, the odour is often coming from the hidden parts. Many homeowners stop at this point because they're worried about spills, trapped water, or opening the wrong panel. In practice, it's usually straightforward if you go slowly and keep a towel nearby.

Check the pump filter or drain trap

Many front-loaders, and some other machines, have a small access panel near the bottom. Behind it is the pump filter or drain trap. This little part catches lint, coins, hair pins, and other debris before they damage the pump.

Open the panel carefully. Place a shallow tray and towel underneath first because a bit of water often comes out. Unscrew the filter slowly, let the water drain, then remove any debris and rinse the filter clean before replacing it securely.

What people find in these filters is often the answer to the lingering smell. Wet lint and pocket debris create a stale, swampy odour that no drum cleaner can solve.

Deal with stubborn seal mould properly

If the door seal still has dark spotting after wiping, you may need more than a cloth. A paste of bicarbonate of soda can help with surface grime. For heavier mould, use a product that's suitable for the material and test a small area first.

If you need a stronger option designed to eliminate tough mould problems, use it carefully and follow the product directions and your appliance manual. The goal is to remove visible growth without damaging the gasket.

> Don't scrub rubber seals aggressively with anything abrasive. You're cleaning the surface, not trying to sand it back.

Inspect the drain hose and surrounding path

A partial blockage in the drain hose can leave dirty water sitting where it shouldn't. You might notice slow draining, stale smells after a cycle, or a machine that seems clean but never smells fresh for long.

Use your manual to locate the hose route. Check for kinks, trapped debris, or obvious build-up where accessible. If the hose looks heavily fouled and your model allows safe removal, clean or replace it according to the manufacturer's instructions.

A quick hotspot checklist:

Pump filter: Remove lint, coins, and standing water residue.
Door seal: Wipe every fold and treat mould carefully.
Drain hose: Check for slow-drain causes.
Drawer cavity: Clean hidden channels, not just the removable tray.
Tub edge and lip: Wipe where grime sits out of view.

Your Proactive Washing Machine Maintenance Schedule

You finish a load, pull out the towels, and the drum already smells a bit damp again. That usually means the machine is staying wet between cycles, or detergent residue is feeding odour in places you cannot see. The fix is a schedule that keeps moisture and build-up under control before they turn into a bigger cleaning job.

For Australian households, that schedule should match how the machine is used. A busy family doing daily loads needs a tighter routine than a couple washing a few times a week. Homes in humid coastal areas also need more attention to drying and airflow because mould gets a head start when seals and drawers stay damp.

A schedule that prevents smells instead of reacting to them

Small jobs done on time work better than occasional heavy cleaning. They also reduce the chance of a minor appliance issue turning into water damage, swollen cabinetry, or flooring trouble.

After each wash

Leave the door or lid ajar: This helps the drum and seals dry out instead of trapping humid air.
Check for wet items left behind: A face washer or sock left sitting overnight can sour the smell of the whole machine.
Quickly wipe visible moisture: Focus on the glass, lid edge, or any surface where water sits.

Weekly

Wipe the detergent drawer opening and surrounding surfaces: This stops softener slime and detergent film from hardening.
Look for early warning signs: Musty smell, sluggish draining, or extra machine movement usually means it is time to inspect more closely.

Monthly

Run an empty hot maintenance cycle: This helps dissolve residue in the drum and internal pipework. Use a manufacturer-approved cleaner if your machine requires it.
Remove and rinse the dispenser drawer: Detergent and softener build-up often starts here, then spreads smell back through the machine.
Clean the inside of the drum and door glass: This catches greasy film before it becomes stubborn.

Every 3 months

Check the filter if your model has one: Regular checks stop lint, grit, and small objects from sitting in stagnant water.
Inspect the drain hose for kinks or slow-drain signs: Poor drainage keeps dirty water in the system longer than it should.

Annually

Inspect hoses, connections, and machine levelling: A washer that rocks or leaks slightly can create a cleaning problem and a property problem at the same time.
Check hidden build-up around edges and access points: Long-term neglect often appears here first.
Review your wider home maintenance plan: Appliance upkeep sits alongside practical tasks like tracking your average house contents value, because replacement costs and preventable damage are part of the same household planning job.

Washing Machine Maintenance Checklist

| Frequency | Task | Why it matters | |---|---|---| | After each use | Leave door or lid ajar and wipe moisture | Reduces mould-friendly dampness | | Weekly | Clean drawer opening and check for smells or slow draining | Catches residue and drainage issues early | | Monthly | Run hot empty maintenance cycle | Clears detergent film and stale odours | | Monthly | Clean dispenser drawer and drum surfaces | Stops sludge from building up | | Every 3 months | Inspect filter and drain path | Helps the machine drain properly | | Annually | Check levelling, hoses, and hidden build-up | Lowers the risk of leaks, vibration, and long-term wear |

The reason this works is simple. Smells do not appear all at once. They build from moisture, residue, and poor drainage over time. Keep interrupting those three causes, and the machine stays fresher with far less effort.

If you only keep three habits, make them these: dry the machine out after use, run a hot maintenance cycle each month, and inspect it before a small problem becomes water damage.